Tag Archives: bike touring

Falling Pieces Falling Into Place

My hobby of writing had been placed on hold for a while, and now I’m back – for a bit.  Summer term is winding down with only three days left of class.  Oh yeah, I got a new keyboard after months of despising the stock keyboard that came with my computer.  Spending the last 6 months taking software-programming classes had me longing for the good old days of mechanical keyboards, and their tactile feel (I think I just dated myself here).  Well, I finally broke down and got a new keyboard, and now I’m writing. DSCN0227

It’s getting to be that time of year again, where I feel the need to break free from the box I live in.  This has really been a year, and I’m finally right where I want to be.  I saw a quote on the inter-webs today, it said, “Sometimes when things are falling apart, they may be falling into place.”   I believe that to true.

I last left this blog on a post about a bicycle trip with a friend, and that bicycling journey ended on a horrific note.  My life, from that point forward, was in all sorts of turmoil.  Life, surely, was not flowing down the path of least resistance, but I can’t complain, for I’m still alive.  Life does have a way of working itself out (if one works hard enough).  So now I’m sitting here feeling very satisfied for the first time in a long while.

I’m set to depart on another bicycle journey in a couple of weeks.  That said, it’s not going to be a month long trek with a guitar, just a short weeklong journey through places I’ve already cycled.  I’ll be joining two different trips taken in the past shortening them both then combining them together to make a good weeks long journey.  Well, that’s the plan anyhow.  With that plan in mind I started digging through my hiking, and bikebacking gear, which eventually found it’s way into my closet.

Digging into my panniers I soon discovered that I never cleaned my gear from last September.  It went from sitting in my garage to being tossed into the closet, forgotten about.  What’s happened since I returned from last September?

Life happened, and for some, it ended.  Through those trials, and tribulations, of a year long journey that found me graveside, bedside, desk-side, drunk, stone cold sober, in and out of doctors offices, while being in school to out of school and to back in school; I’ve found myself learning more this past year about myself, life, and love, than in any other year I’ve been alive.

When things feel like they’re falling apart, they could actually be falling into place.

The one thing I’ve never done well is give up.  I’ve always done things the hard way, but I guess that’s who I am.  When I find a mountain I climb up it on a bike.  I carry too much gear, and I hold on to too much baggage.  Why, because I’m a thinker.  I plan for the worst hoping for the best.  I let my emotions get to me, and I display my feelings on my shoulder.  I’m an open book.  But I don’t quit, and I don’t let go easily.  It’s probably why I like bicycling, because it’s honest.

Certain roads are deceitful, they’re optical illusions where you think you should be going downhill, but your actually gradually ascending, the term is called, false flats.  Life’s that way too, but cycling is honest.  You know you’re working.  There are no secrets to going faster.  If you want to go faster, work harder!  And that’s how I’m learning to live a better life.  After a year of ups, downs, highs, and lows, my life is falling into place just like the best bicycle journeys do.  You can’t know what the best truly feels like, until you’ve experienced the worst.

My alarm sounded at 1:30am on July 3rd, 2014, in New Meadows, Idaho.  The destination for the day was through another area titled Hells Canyon Recreation Area along the Salmon River, aka Rattlesnake River, where I’d plan on stopping for the night, in White Bird, Idaho.  The daytime temperatures were forecasted to be the same as the depths of hell, one hundred plus degrees in the shade, if any shade could be found.  Plus, the road was a windy twisted one-lane road for most of the days ride.  Therefore, an early departure was needed to make the 70-mile ride before the heat melted everything on the roadway, including vulnerable cyclists.  I loaded up the bike the evening before because of the planned 2:00am departure.DSCN0249

I crawled out of bed wanting more sleep, tired and stiff.  I used the lavatory, washed my face, stowed my remaining items securely away in my panniers, and grabbed my bicycle.  Just before leaving the sanctity of my warm, cozy, and minuscule motel room, I pulled back the curtains gazing out the window.  The cars were wet, the ground black, the sky was dark with no stars visible.  I thought to myself, “Oh, a shower must have come through last evening.”  I grabbed my bike, opened the door leaving the door-key behind, and pushed out the door while closing the locked door behind.

Standing under the eve of the motel I secured my helmet over the skullcap warming my head, then slid my cycling gloves on, and zipped up my jacked, finally mounting my steed.  As I pushed against the pedals in slow revolutions slowly warming my body, I began to notice that it was raining.  And then it happened; I heard the loud smack of thunder rumbling in the distance.  30 minutes later after a handful of miles, I found myself riding towards a thunderstorm in the mountains.  I had to stop; I couldn’t ride into a thunder and lightning storm, as that was unsafe and sure way to get struck by lightning, while sitting on steel bike.

So, at 2:30 in the morning I was standing on the side of a road in the middle of nowhere.  No place to go, no motel room to hide in, and it was raining off and on; not to mention the series of thunderstorms passing me by in the direction I needed to go.   Bicycle travel can be quite lonely.  If only I had checked the forecast before leaving, I could’ve been laying in a warm bed sleeping, instead of standing in the pitch black darkness of the night, in the middle of nowhere cold and alone.

This day would wind up being the most memorable, and enjoyable, day of the last years trip to Montana.  Everything always seems to work it’s way out.

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Summer’s Grand Finale

            “Dad, is she really dead?” “Yeah, Tim, I’m sorry.” “Why the fuck is this on Facebook, Why am I getting voicemails and messages about Facebook posts, and why am I reading this on Facebook, I’m in the middle of the woods on Mount Hood and this is how I’m finding out!!!”
“I’m sorry, Tim.” “Is Mom okay?” “Yeah everyone is here with her now.” “Tim, there’s nothing you can do, just stay safe and follow your route and come home on Tuesday as you planned.” “Okay Dad.”
First Night's Camp

First Night’s Camp

This was supposed to be the camping trip that would end summer. A friend of mine was enthusiastic about giving loaded bicycling touring try. All other previous bicycle adventures my friend has taken involved a support vehicle (known as SAG [support and gear] wagons). My argument, before we departed: touring with a SAG wagon is equal to going for daily bike rides, while loaded bicycle touring is a different beast all together. My friend disagreed. However, the first hours of the trip would be shocking for him; his eyes would finally open to the world that is, unsupported bicycle travel.

I offered my friend three different routes to choose from, as I was in charge of route planning. He always had a vehicle for him to jump into when situations got treacherous.  Because of this, I gave him three options, they ranged from easy to difficult. My friend chose the hardest. He then ignored every bit of advice I gave him.

“Don’t forget your water filter, and oh yeah, how many water bottles are you bringing?” I asked. “Two.” John replied. “You need to be able to carry more than two bottles of water. We won’t be near any services for at least two days. Make sure you can carry enough water. I’m carrying a 1.5 liter reservoir, a 32 ounce Nalgene, and two 20 ounce water bottles. I can drink all that in a day going over mountain passes.” John laughed at me and said, “You’re carrying way too much water.” “Ok, yeah you’re right…” I replied while mumbling something derogatory under my breath.

My mom was still in the hospital after having cancer removed from her lung. I had been considering cancelling this four to five-day adventure due to the seriousness of my mother’s condition. A few days before departing on the bike trip, my Mom had started to improve. She improved so much that her health had stabilized. The doctors would be releasing her the night I would leave, if not, the next morning. So my Dad and I agreed that it was okay for me to go. Not only that, my friend had also spent somewhere in the realm of $1,000.00 to get gear for this trip. Not only for the trip, but he has aspirations of solo unsupported bike tours of his own. But he wanted to go with a buddy on his first experience.

The first day was an easy ride out of Portland. For John, it was eye-opening; “I can’t believe how much water I’m drinking, and how the wind really adds resistance to the bike.” We stopped at a town outside of Portland named Boring, Oregon. This is where John would fill up his two water bottles, for a second time, since leaving his place only 25 miles down the road. We hadn’t been on the road for more than a couple of hours.

I was in rare form the first day. My mouth was releasing all of my frustrations to the world. I was doing this while I watched my friend fight with his bicycle. He stopped paying attention and nearly drove into a ditch. He looked behind him and nearly fell over, almost falling and swerving into me. It reminded me of my first time. We were having fun though.

The second day, the wind kicked up. I have no idea how fast the wind was blowing, but it was a consistently strong head wind flowing down the Clackamas River from high upon on Mount Hood. I had made sure to eat a big breakfast that morning. That said though, I hadn’t had much cycling time since I’d returned from my tour to Montana. Eating such a big breakfast, then fighting headwinds while climbing a six percent grade for three miles, had my stomach in disrepair. We had to rest. All morning long after departure, John was talking about death. I said to him, “Man, let’s talk about positives not about dying and negatives. Let’s be positive.”

I pulled into a campground and found a picnic table climbing onto its top where I laid supine for a few minutes. Then I rolled onto my side and closed my eyes. I felt weak, sick, and thirsty. I forced down a bottle of water, then returned to my horizontal position listening to John ramble on about death, health, exercise, and everything else that I should be doing. I was getting frustrated. But my plan had worked. Taking a 45 minute nap and then slamming a bottle of water had been what I needed, I felt better.

We returned to the highway continuing into the wilderness, and John began pointing out every sign, in detail, that we came upon. It was as if I wasn’t there or something. “No services for sixty miles the sign says.” I see it, confirming the signs presence. “There’s a ranger station up ahead that has a little store where we can get soda, and firewood, but it’s only open during camping season.” I explained. Continuing on we rounded a corner and saw another bicycle tourist.

At the general store we stopped and talked for bit with the bicyclist. I cannot remember the guy’s name, but this was his very first bicycle tour. He had no experience, but lots of ambition, and had just graduated from Portland State. He was on his first leg of multi-content bike tour. This kid was going places, and was a welcomed addition for the rest of the day, and night, as I needed a break from John pointing out the obvious.

2nd Night's Camp

2nd Night’s Camp

The three of us camped that night along the Clackamas River somewhere in the Mount Hood national forest. We had a great night talking about organized religion, bicycle touring, recreational drug use, the girls camping next to us, and the party on the other side of the river. The night was a blast. The next morning we would get up continuing on to the bridge where we would go our separate ways.

The next morning, on our third day, we all packed up together and hit the road. It was Sunday morning in the middle of the Mount Hood national forest along the Clackamas River. The forest road was littered in beer cans, smoldering ashes, cars strewn along the side of the road in the ditch; the area where we were in was thrashed with car campers. A despicable sight. Passing a long line of cars, Coors Light cans, Pabst Blue Ribbon cartons half burnt, and camp-sites filled with passed out car campers, we finally bicycled by a smoldering pile of ashes spread out on the shoulder of the Forest Road.

Looking at this smoking pile I decided to turn around and douse the ground that was burning. As I turned back, dismounting my steed, a couple of people opened their pickup truck doors and stumbled out gazing straight at me. Feeling uncomfortable while fearing a confrontation with unreasonable drunks, I quickly hopped back onto my bicycle and continued on leaving the burning ditch still smoking. A week after returning from this very trip the area was on the news; there was a large forest fire.

DSCN0414            John, myself, and the tourist whose name I cannot remember, had found the turn off to Timothy Lake. The nameless rider would continue on to Detroit, Oregon. John and I, we would make a left turn continuing to climb up to 4,500 feet in elevation before dropping down to Timothy Lake. We were in our second day without cell phone coverage. And our second day without a store. At camp last night everyone used my water filter to restock on clean drinkable water (as John had forgotten his water-filter). This was also the point where we would turn away from the river. Thereby meaning, no more water until reaching Timothy Lake. From our turn off point, to Timothy Lake, was 17 miles predominately uphill. No more than a mile up the road, John starts talking about death, “I hope he makes it to South America and doesn’t die on the way.” “Why would you say that, John? I thought we weren’t going to talk about death.” “Well, people die.” Captain Obvious at it again, I said to myself. Then it happened.

“I can’t believe how much climbing were doing, at this rate will reach 8,000 feet.” Na we’re fine I said. We’ve only been going on this road for about five miles now. “Well,” John says, “I’m running low on water.” 12 miles later we stop. And it’s about 2:00 in the afternoon. John has been complaining about climbing hills the entire time, he’s running low on water, and getting overly frustrated. I’m tired of hearing complaints because well, I warned him. John wants to check his phone because he heard a beep. No phone service.

Forest Ranger Station

Forest Ranger Station

We continue with the last five miles to the turn off to Timothy Lake where we stumble upon a historic ranger station. John starts to look for running water. We find some after a short search. The first water source we find, John says, “Lets filter it, I think it’s contaminated because it’s got caution tape on the spigot.” I says, “It’s the first source of water we have found, let’s keep searching, I’m sure we’ll find potable water, we’re at an old ranger station.” No, filter this, John demands. “Come on dude, don’t panic.”

Timothy Lake

Timothy Lake

Tired, but with our thirst quenched, we coast on down to the Lake. At lakeside we plan our evening. Should we campout here, or continue up to the highway and see if we can’t make it closer to highway 35? We decide to keep moving, it’s 3:30 in the afternoon. But unbeknownst to John, we have to climb back out of the mountains another 10 miles, and over the summit at 4,500 feet again, just to get to highway 26. Timothy Lake sits at an elevation of 3,120 feet. John is tired and weary of climbing hills in the Mount Hood National Forest. It’s his third day of bicycle touring, and he’s run out of water, he is hungry, and his sense of mileage is off. He’s exhausted, frustrated, and uncomfortable. I feel for him. I’m feeling good, just frustrated that John isn’t having a good time anymore.

We finally make it out of the forest and next to the main highway, Oregon highway 26, at Timothy Lake Sno-Park. It’s 4:30 in the afternoon and we’ve been riding all day. However, we’ve only gone 32 miles, but it’s been a serious climb of 32 miles. John is feeling ever more frustrated with the situation. He wants cell phone coverage, he wants to be in a campground, and he wants to have running water, and he doesn’t want to be here. But here we are, we’re under a shelter at a Sno-Park on the side of highway 26 where I ask him, “Hey, what do you think about chilling out here and then dipping off into the woods over yonder setting up camp just outta sight?” “I don’t know, I don’t feel comfortable here, we’re trespassing right now. There is a sign right here that says no camping!” “We’re not camping we’re resting and planning John. And I’m starving so I’m going to make dinner now, Okay?” “Okay.”

DSCN0438Prepping to make dinner, I pull my cutting board out and clean it. I pour a bit of water on the board scrubbing it clean with my camp towel. Then I dry it off and set it down in front of me. I look away and reach into my bag grabbing my knife. John is across the room at his own table about 10 feet from me. I look back at my cutting board with knife in hand, and there sits three half-round pieces of shiny polished wood, each about the size of a nickel, resting on my cutting board which I just finished cleaning. Thinking nothing of it, I wipe them off and set my knife down next to my cutting board. I look into my bag grabbing some food items. Returning to the board, again, three more half round polished pieces of wood all sitting neatly on board. I look around and John is busy working with his camp-stove, frustrated, and oblivious to me. I wiped the wood pieces away, and dive back into my food pannier retrieving spices this time. Once again, there are the three shiny wood pieces. I said to John, “I think a Spirit, or Ghost, is trying to communicate with me. You never know what’s in these woods.” As I show John the shiny pieces of wood. “It’s just squirrels.” He replies. No squirrels were around.

After eating John and I got into more conflict. I give the maps to John so he can plan our move just before sunset. “Let’s go here, to Parkdale tonight and get a hotel room.” “John we’ve got 3 more passes to bike over between here and Parkdale, were on Mount Hood and the sun is just about to set, we’re exhausted, and we’re on a busy highway, it’s not the safest option.” “Well, I’m not camping here!” “We’re not camping here, were camping outside of here in the woods somewhere.” John doesn’t like that option so he comes back with, “Let’s go to Frog Lake campground 10 miles down the road and get a real camp spot with water and bathrooms.” “Okay then.”

Just before we pack up I grab my phone. I’m just outside of Timothy Lake on the crest, I check my phone and I’ve got one bar of signal strength. I make a phone call to my parents to check on my Mom. Communication is difficult but I heard my Mom’s voice and she heard mine. All is good, she’s home. I turn the phone off. We’re going closer to government camp, where we will have much better coverage, though spotty still.

Heading over to Frog Lake on highway 26, I’m keeping one eye on my mirror and one eye on the road. Traffic wasn’t as heavy as I expected, but it was coming in waves as is the norm. And, the sun has now set. When all of a sudden, I see a car driving in the shoulder quickly coming up directly behind John. I ditch the bike into the soft shoulder where I come to a rapid halt. John who was on my six never sees the car and stops in the shoulder; which in turn causes the driver to jut quickly, and suddenly, into traffic whilst almost colliding into John, and another car.  This other car was passing the car driving inside the shoulder of the road, on the right side of the solid white line. That was the final straw the broke my back.

John isn’t watching his rear, we are unsafe. Not more than 150 feet behind us was a gravel dirt road. I turned around and entered the road. There, on a gravel road just off of highway 26 between Timothy Lake Sno-Park, and Frog Lake Sno-Park, we camped on a dead-end dirt road. No words were spoken between John and myself that night. John had now been exposed to unsupported bicycle travel. The end of day three.

I quickly set up camp and then got in my tent. The sun had already set. There was a gas station not far from here where I’d grab a morning snack and something to drink. Hopefully John would be in a better mood, day four and mostly downhill. I powered up my phone as we were about 5 miles closer to Government Camp. Bam, 3G coverage! I was getting lit up. Voicemails, and texts. Something had happened while I was away. Something sudden and terrible.

Sitting in my tent I discovered that a cousin of mine had died. I read about her passing in a Facebook post, after listening to a voicemail message about a weird post on Facebook. I had just spoken to her only days before. I called my dad, and the post was true. My cousin had died. Sitting in my pitch black tent alongside of highway 26, I sat crying, waiting out the night. I had, had it with John’s shit, at first light I was going home. My first order of business was to get John somewhere safe.

The next morning I packed up at 5:00am. By 6:00am I was sitting in the dark on the side of Mount Hood with my gear packed; eating cold oats smashed up with a dark chocolate bar mixed with water out of my coffee cup. I wasn’t playing around. Every morning so far, John was jokingly telling me how slowly I pack-up and get moving. Now he’d see what it’s like to make miles. I was going home. 90 plus miles was in store for me. I needed out. One of my closest cousins to me had died and I wasn’t there to hug my Mom, whose baby had suddenly died.

John sticks his head out of his tent. There I am sitting on a rock eating out of my coffee cup. He packs up and says, “Ready.” I can barely speak, I’ve never been so pissed off. “John, watch your rear you almost got hit last night.” “I saw the car,” he replies. “Then why the hell did you stop right in front of him? You didn’t see shit till it was almost too late. If you see me ditch it into the culvert, it’s for a reason.”

DSCN0441We headed out onto the road and made it to Frog Lake Sno-Park where we finally started talking. But words were brief. It wasn’t until we got to the gas station on highway 26, 5 miles from OR highway 26 and OR 35 junction, that we really communicated.

The gas-station was closed.

John says to me, “They open at 8:00, let’s wait.” “Okay.” “Hey Tim, I know that you’re stressed out, and I overheard heard you last night say to someone that you wanted to leave and ride home last night. If you want to leave me here I’ll be fine.” He continued on to say “I understand what you’re feeling right now with your Mom and all.” I cut him off.

“You understand what John. You don’t understand a damn thing,” I lost it: “All you did yesterday was complain about everything that I warned you about. You almost got hit by a car last night. You forced us into a bad situation. And now you know what I’m going through?” He cuts me off butting in…

“You’re blaming me for everything…” I cut him off.

“John, I don’t blame you, I just lost a family member and my Mom is really sick…” He cuts me off again not letting me talk and vent.

“I understand and know what you’re feeling and I understand your situation and that you just lost someone, I overheard your conversation.”

“You don’t understand a damn thing then John, shut your fucking mouth for five minutes and I’ll explain it to you. If you don’t then I’m leaving your ass right here.”

He looked straight at me and started talking again… I left.

At 8:30 on Monday morning I was sitting in a café eating a hot breakfast. I called my Mom. I’ll be there by 2:00 I told her. After eating breakfast I jumped on the bike. By 1:00pm I was in Vancouver talking to my Dad. 93 miles done.

“I thought you weren’t coming back until tomorrow” My Dad asks. “No, I couldn’t be up on Mount Hood right now. I had to come home.” “Where’s John?”

“Stuck on Mount Hood, He’s fine. I taught him well.”

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Yellowstone Part 4 – Party Mitchell Style

Prineville to Mitchell, Oregon – 58 Miles

Saturday the 21st of June came early as I began rubbing the sleep from my eyes, at four-thirty in the morning. I had packed my panniers fastening them securely to Black Magic (the bicycle) the night before. After taking a rest day, I was ready to leave Prineville, Oregon in my rearview mirror, or so I kept telling myself. Truthfully, I was apprehensive and my stomach knew it. I had visited the lavatory twice within the 10 minute period it took for me to awake and push my bicycle out the door, locking the motel key inside.

City Center Motel

City Center Motel

Shutting the Motel door to room 31 of the City Center Motel in Prineville, Oregon, while it was still dark and freezing cold, was no simple task. Doing so meant moving on as I locked the door from the inside leaving the key on the table. I clipped into the pedals and began turning the crank over slowly letting Black Magic carry me to the Apple Peddler restaurant for my power breakfast: two Poached eggs, hash-browns, wheat toast, and a short stack of flapjacks, served with decaffeinated coffee and orange juice. After eating, I carried on a long debate upon whether to visit the restaurants facilities, or not. I declined, it was a decision I’d soon come to regret.

That 21st of June was a cold morning, the temps were hovering around the freezing mark. Traveling eastward via highway 26 on the edge of town, I found myself stopping often. First it was to adjust my shoes, then I was stopping to don yet another layer of clothing, and then it was to curse myself for not visiting a toilet when one was offered. No other businesses were open at 5:30 on a Saturday morning. My first destination would have to be Ochoco Reservoir. The first few miles to Ochoco Reservoir went by slowly. That’s to be expected after a rest day due to the fact that I’m constantly making adjustments to my gear, myself, and the bicycle. After all the clicks, creaks, and knocks, have been worked out the miles start to add up quickly.

Ochoco Reservoir, Prineville Oregon

Ochoco Reservoir, Prineville Oregon

Prineville was long behind me when I began coming upon what appeared to be a cyclist in front of me. This looked like it could be a fellow bicycle tourist. As I tried to get closer, the cyclist would follow a bend in the road disappearing from my sight-line. Finally, as I thought I was gaining ground on the tourist, the bicycle traveler vanished. Following a left hand bend in the road I saw the body of water on my right hand side, Ochoco Reservoir, and then I saw the bicycle traveler whom I was gaining upon resting in the gravel turn-out. I swung in to say hi. We chatted for a while sharing are our intended destination, Mitchell, Oregon, and then we continued eastward both at our own pace. But first, seeing as how I had made it to Ochoco State Park, I sought out a toilet. After visiting an outhouse at the state park, I mounted Black Magic for the long gradual ascent towards eastern Oregon with a much better outlook, I no longer felt alone.

Meeting the fellow cyclist was a mood booster, and something I had needed. I took meeting this fellow traveler as an encouraging omen, good things were going to happen. I recognized this traveler from the Subway in Sisters, Oregon. I recognized his flag and his mountain bike.

The day warmed up nicely and the miles kept adding up. It was a day of false flats, and constant elevation gain as the road ascended to Mitchell, Oregon. The day was made complete with a detour through Painted Hills, the tourist trap just west of Mitchell.

HWY 26 to Mitchell

HWY 26 to Mitchell

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As I was exiting the turn off from Painted Hills (Didn’t take any pictures due to the high heat of the day.), and back onto eastbound highway 26, I saw another fellow bicycle tourist cycling down the roadway, this fella would be another tourist heading east on the Trans-America bicycle route. As I pulled into Mitchell, Oregon, myself and the two other bicycle tourists would pull into town at the same time, Rob and Jim.

Rob, Jim, and I, looked for places to crash for the night. Jim decided upon staying at a hostel, while Rob and I both chose the city park, which doubled as the town’s campground. Deciding upon lodging options, we all dined at Little Pine Café. After a mediocre dinner of an overcooked burger, and a decent salad, the night would become awesome.

Mitchell, Oregon, a small zero stoplight town built off of a small barely noticeable turnoff exiting highway 26, is easy to miss if you blink at the right time while driving at 55 MPH. The town, built into the lumpy hillside next to highway 26, had the pulse a red-neck after drinking a couple of shots of whiskey. The town was buzzed on suds and shots of grandpa’s cough syrup. There was a band playing a private show on an outdoor stage that was supposed to be closed off with a black curtain, which wasn’t doing the job. There was a keg of beer just beyond the entrance into the show. Friendly motorcyclist out for a weekend joyride around Oregon were staying overnight in the town’s park where my tent was setup. And a group of about 30 car-topping cyclists were making Mitchell their overnight destination as well, all in the same park.

The town with a little over 100 residents, probably had the same amount of visitors on that night. Exiting the diner, the town felt like a party was erupting, and the tour to Yellowstone had just become awesome. Walking out of Little Pine Café after dinner, I began to set up my tent and secured my bicycle for the night. While doing that, 2 more bicycle tourists whom were heading east showed up at the city park slash campground. Seeger and Bob. Seeger was carrying a ukulele, and I was carrying a small travel guitar. We shared music, swapped stories, walked the town, and listened to Gordon Lightfoot songs having a great night. The next morning we all packed up heading east.

From Forest to Desert

From Forest to Desert

Mitchell

Mitchell

Looking back to HWY 26

Looking back to HWY 26

That was a store of some sort, the car is in the way.

That was a store of some sort, the car is in the way.

Another Store Front

Another Store Front

Open Air Store

Open Air Store

We Play in the Street

We Play in the Street

Me in Blue at the Black Fence

Me in Blue at the Black Fence

The Band

The Band

The Curtain Not Working

The Curtain Not Working

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Truck Stop and Pogo

Truck Stop and Pogo

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The Cafe

The Cafe

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Wide View

Wide View

Getting Ready for Jam Session

Getting Ready for Jam Session

Tent City

Tent City

Relaxing

Relaxing

My Camp!

My Camp!

Peppered Thunder and Lightning

Entrance to Black Butte Ranch

I saw the dark cloud from the summit of Santiam Pass, Oregon highway 20, and continued cycling towards the ominous rain cloud thinking it would be gone by the time I got there. The two lane busy highway west of Sisters, Oregon was flooded, rain was crashing down, and hail was mixed in with it. Cars were continually sending sheets of water into my side as they hydroplaned by. I was standing on my pedals pushing on them as hard as I could. On a scale of one to ten, ten being maximum effort, I was putting out a thirteen. I was pushing myself way beyond the red-zone, perhaps purple zone would be more appropriate. This storm was noisy loud as the thunder was deafening. Lightning was touching the ground on all sides, but none had come out and zapped me, yet. It was only a matter of seconds before a driver lost control of their vehicle slamming into me ending my life, it was either that, or a bolt of lightning. The sky looked like it should’ve been ten o’clock in the evening; however it was only ten to three in the afternoon. I woke up early that morning eager to get a start on the day. I peered out the window from behind the blinds of my cheaply tiny motel room. Damn, it was raining, again. My eagerness quickly faded. I powered up my iPhone and checked the forecast for Detroit, Oregon. Rain, a quarter of an inch was forecasted. Now I really didn’t feel motivated. My plan was to ride single-track in the forest following highway 126 south fifteen miles to highway 242. Fuck it I thought, “I’ll go it eat breakfast come back and maybe it will have stopped raining before I leave.” I sat down for breakfast ordering my usual power meal, two poached eggs, hash-browns, wheat toast, and griddle-cakes. What I got instead was two poached eggs and griddle-cakes. Oh well, I will leave town the way I came in, with a fucked up order. Walking out the door of the restaurant, I found the sky holding onto its water supply. I quickly walked back to the motel room. I saddled up Black Magic opening the door to my room and pushed the bike outside. Raining again; oh well I thought, I can’t let a bit of rain spoil my day. The riding was a gradual ascent from 1,500 feet above sea level to the interchange of highway 20, and 126, sitting at 3,500 feet above sea level. The rain kept me from overheating, and at times I could see my own exhaust escaping out of my mouth. Mid to late summer on August 25th and I’m seeing my own breath, I said to myself in amazement. Reaching the interchange I decided to forgo highway 126 to McKenzie Pass staying on highway 20. What’s the point of riding up the scenic route if I can’t see a darn thing due to low clouds, rain, and heavy fog? I continued east up the Santiam Pass. Cresting above 3,500 feet, I had pedaled out of the clouds and the rain stopped. The air was warm and comfortable as my clothes began to dry out. I continued upwards to the summit at 4,800 feet above sea level as my clothes started to get damp, this time from sweat rather than a steady rain. The road began to level out as I reached the summit of Santiam Pass, after a steady upward climb of 47 miles. I noticed a sign indicating a turn off for an access point to the Pacific Crest Trail, so I turned off the highway. More climbing, but what the heck, I’ll go up to check out the trailhead. Reaching the top I could see in all directions; I looked east and that’s when I saw the ferocious looking cloud.

When I saw that beast of a cloud I figured it wasn’t much to worry about. I was still a good 35 miles out from Bend, and 15 from Sisters, Oregon. That sucker would be long gone by the time I got there. I turned to head back to the highway and a guy called out, “Hey there, you look like you’ve been going for a while, need a cold drink?” “Sure.” “We’ve got beer, coke, water, what’s your flavor?” I cycled over and noticed that a guy, and gal, had set up a tent at the trailhead complete with a two burner propane stove. “We’re here providing trail-magic for the threw hikers of the Pacific Crest Trail, but you look like you’re out on a long journey yourself.” “Yeah thanks,” as he hands me a coke. “I’m riding from Portland to Crater Lake via as many forest roads as possible. Are you getting many through hikers along here?” “Yep, this is the time of year when they come through this part. I through hiked last year and this spot offered little in the way of trail-magic, so I decided that I’d post up here and provide magic for the hikers.” “Will you sign my book” he asks? I signed his log book and I pedaled off with a sugar high. Today’s turning out to be a good day after all, I thought to myself as I turned east back onto highway 20.

I found myself quickly topping speeds of over 45 MPH as I descended from the summit of Santiam Pass. That big dark spot in the sky was coming ever closer, and looking even more threatening, as I continued heading east at a high rate of speed. “Black Butte 10 Miles” the sign warned as rain began to fall from the sky. The sky was a dark grey, but looking fairly innocent. This wasn’t so bad I told myself. Thunder rolled in the distance, nothing to worry about, as I proceeded towards Black Butte Ranch. For every mile I got closer to Black Butte the rain became heavier, and more treacherous. I stopped and switched on my tail-light to flashing mode. Cars were switching on their headlights and starting to ride the fog-line. I was becoming a bit nervous. This is getting bad, I told myself. I pulled into Black Butte Ranch. Pulling into Black Butte, I found a tree that offered a small dry spot. I stopped for minute grabbing a few pictures. I was thinking, perhaps I should go find some shelter a place to hang out letting the storm pass. Gazing at the sky I noticed that the clouds appeared to be drifting northwesterly. I told myself that I was on the eastern edge of the storm. I just had to get clear of it and things would get better. I didn’t have much further to go. So I turned around and pedaled back to the highway turning east again. At this point the rain drops were big, and heavy. The highway soon flooded. As I pulled up to the intersection I noticed that the vehicles were all hugging the fog line, my shoulder was gone. I hopped off the bike pushing my bicycle in the drenching, flooding rain, five feet off the shoulder in a soft cinder filled ditch next to the highway. Small rivers began forming in the trench as I skipped, and leaped, through them. As I shoved my bike along in the grueling red cinder filled shoulder with gushing water that was trying to escape the flooded river of a highway, the rain was beginning to ease up. And then it happened, the rain quit just as quickly as it had begun. I had reached the edge of the storm. The highway was drying, the cars began moving back to the center of roadway away from the fog-line, and I hopped back on the bike. Gerrr… gerr… grind. What the fuck is that? An awful grinding sensation was coming from the rear wheel. I hopped off next to the busy highway and pushed my bike back into the red cinder pit. I examined my rear wheel and it was covered in sticky red lava rocks. Damn I said out loud. I cleaned them off as best I could unlatching the brakes. The process was futile, the bastards were everywhere. I pushed the bike back out onto the shoulder, and doing so covered the rear wheel again. So this time I had to complete the process all over once more while standing next to a dark wet shoulder inches from high-speed traffic in low visibility. I started riding again, with a noisy back wheel. Riding along the wet highway minus precipitation the roadway began a gentle ascent. As I crested the hill the sky began to close up, and quickly. The storm, that I thought I had passed through, began merging into another storm cell. Suddenly thunder was ripping through the highway as my daylight was disappearing. Dark black clouds had blue bursts of electricity flashing through as rain began lashing down upon me. The winds howled, thunder began ripping violently through my body, and highway 20 turned into a river. I started looking to my left, and then right, spying for anything that might provide me shelter. Glancing over to my right as I was cycling down the highway, I saw a bolt of lightning touch the ground, and pause, growing huge with energy. As this was happening a violent crack sent my eardrums into a frenzy. The crack felt like it had ripped my chest open and flicked my heart sending it racing into my throat. “FUCK” I screamed – I was trapped. Sisters can’t be much further I told myself. I needed off this highway. Cars were racing by once again, only this time they were hugging the shoulder, even tighter. The only difference was, I wasn’t five feet off the highway pushing my bike; I was still pedaling on the narrow shoulder. I couldn’t duck into the forest for shelter because the constant lightning was bursting down into the ground just feet away from me, on all sides. The wind was racing just as quickly as the cars; and then it began to hail. FUCK! – I picked up a little more speed. Hail was pelting down onto my helmet, and floating in the inch of standing water on the highway, as I arose onto my pedals. Sisters can’t be much further I thought. “Sisters 6 Miles” a sign indicated that I had come upon. Oh damn, my heart sank. My speedometer read 12 MPH. 30 minutes out, I’ll be dead before I get to Sisters. I picked my speed up once more, “God help me I yelled,” as I pushed as hard as I could – my speedometer now was reading 26 MPH. Riding as fast as I could possibly go in nearly zero visibility, cars were passing me by with just inches to spare sending sheets of muddy water into my face. My clothes were drenched, hail was pounding my arms and hands, yet I wasn’t feeling any pain. The sky was a strobe light of electric blue that occasionally sent bolts down into the trees next to me. Gusts of wind came racing towards me trying to knock me off my bike. It was amazing that no car had hydroplaned into me, nor that a lightning bolt decided to kiss my steel bike. And then the amazing happened. A truck pulled off onto the shoulder and stopped. I quickly approached it from behind and a young lady stepped out from the passenger side in the deluge and said, “Can we give you a ride?” “Can you take me to Sisters?” We threw my bike into the bed of the pick-up and sailed down the flooded highway into Sisters.

I sat outside a grocery store drip drying from the torrential rains as the storm slowly proceeded northeast, tearing apart every part of Jefferson County that it touched. As I sat trembling on the edge of Rays Food Place’s foundation, a guy comes up and says, “We passed you on the highway. That was a terrible storm you were riding in.” This was the second most terrifying experience of my life. Sitting outside the grocery store I checked the forecast – it was the same as the day I left Vancouver, Washington: a chance of afternoon thunderstorms. I was quitting. I called my friend and he came picking me up from the grocery store. As I went to bed that night safely secure from any passing storm in my friends guest room, I opened the window and looked back west into the mountains which I had just traversed. There, from the bedroom window, I saw flashes of lighting hearing the distant rumble of thunder that was still peppering the very mountains I had planned to be camping in. I had once again made the proper decision – mountain travel on a bicycle just wasn’t in the cards. Quitting was the only sane thing to do. Oh yeah and the rain ruined my camera, the last images I was able to capture were of the storm building at Black Butte Ranch.

Radar Image from Ray’s Food Place